Olympia the Beautiful

By John Miller Murphy

Transcribed and footnoted by Roger Easton. The article is from:

The Coast April 1903

 

 

Note: -- John Miller Murphy, the writer of this article, is among the oldest and best-known residents of the State of Washington.  He has long been associated with the public life of Olympia and the State.  It is with gratification we are able to secure the article about Olympia from his pen.  Mr. Murphy was born near Fort Wayne, Indiana, November 3, 1839.  He came to Portland, across the plains, in 1850, with his sister’s family (Mrs. George A. Barnes). The following spring the family moved to Olympia.  He served an apprenticeship at the printing business in Portland from 1856 to 1860, and in June of the latter year established the “Chronicle” at Vancouver, in partnership with L. E. V. Coon; in November of the same year moved to Olympia and founded the “Washington Standard,” which paper he has published without missing a single number, nearly fifty-three years.  He was appointed public printer in 1863 and served as territorial auditor and ex-officio quartermaster general from 1867 to 1870, during 1873 and 1874 and from 1888 to statehood.  He served eight years as city councilman and one term as county school superintendent.  In 1890 he built the Olympia theater, on of the neatest and most modern of our costly theaters on the coast.—The Editor

 

[Murphy’s theater (Opera House), which seated 1000 people in plush maroon seats purchased in Grand Rapids, featured a baroque stage and hand-painted scenery, art glass doors, and was fully equipped with electric  lights. The interior was finished with oak and redwood wood workings.]

 


 

 

Olympia, the capital of the State of Washington, is situated on Budd’s Inlet, at the head of Puget Sound, on whose shores are found several cities which rival the larger emporiums of the East in importance of commercial and industrial growth.  It is practically located at the commercial, if not the geographical, center of the State, and, as regards settlement, is absolutely at the center of population.  Within a radius of 100 miles from the State capital there is a population estimated at 300,000 people, which is rapidly increasing.  The city is easy of access, there being two railroads, running daily passenger and freight trains, and a number of fine passenger steamers ply daily between Olympia and Tacoma, Seattle, Shelton, Kamilchie and other cities and towns.

 

The surroundings of Olympia are surprisingly fine, and the city is designated by visitors very generally as “Olympia, the Beautiful.”  It is located on a peninsula, gently rising from tide water until an elevation of nearly a hundred feet is reached at Capitol hill, on which the people of the state declared, and two legislatures directed that, a million dollar state edifice should be erected.  The basement story, already complete for the superstructure, at a cost of $100,000, is a massive foundation of stone and brick walls and arches.  But like all plans of man the old initial ideas have to be changed to conform with the active present.

 

According to the original plans a magnificent structure of which we present an illustration, was to have been built.  A land grant of 132,000 acres of land, most of which was located and the selections approved by the general government, was available for funds necessary to prosecute the work to completion, with a surplus left for beautifying the grounds and supplying all the adjuncts of a modern state house.  The capitol grounds consisted of 20 acres donated [to] the state for that purpose.  They are situated on an eminence in the rear of the peninsula, from which a sweep of 25 miles of the majestic waters of Puget Sound may be enjoyed.  The capitol from the decks of incoming steamers, when completed would have presented a majestic appearance with the city in the foreground and verdant hills with snow-flecked mountains in the distance.

 

The view from the original site of the state house is grand beyond description.  From where the rear portico, with its majestic semi-circle of columns was to adorn the edifice when completed, one may overlook the city at his feet, his glance resting upon Mount Rainier on the right, with its peak lost perhaps in the clouds, and its sides sparkling in its garb of perpetual snow; in front the graceful contour of the Sound affords a splendid picture for the framework of the Olympic Range in the far distance and the Black Hills on the left with their mighty forests of evergreen.  The blue sky, with its fleecy clouds, and its reflected splendor in the broad expanse of water, constitute the finishing touches of the Master’s work.  It is a view once seen will never be forgotten.

 

Now, the state has purchased the old Thurston County court house, and at a total expense of about $150,000 is constructing wings and adapting it to the necessities and demands of a capitol building.

 

Two miles from the center of the Capital City, is its suburb Tumwater, connected by an elegant outfit of electric cars with the city proper.  Here is where will in times be gathered the manufactories of the Upper Sound, for here are the mighty cascades of the Deschutes River, which make their leaps of 87 feet in all, before reaching tide water, affording a manufacturing energy estimated at 10,000 horse power.  Here, too, the landscape affords a picturesque scene that lingers on the cherished leaves of memory.

 

The eligibility of Olympia as a commercial point is shown by the fact that the eminent minds which inaugurated and wrought out the great scheme of transcontinental traffic by railroad, after thorough examination of the reports of the best civil engineers, based upon a careful personal examination in detail of all rival points on the Sound, unqualifiedly accepted Olympia as embracing more and better facilities for managing the great current of trade that must pass through the entrepot of the commerce of a great continent with the remainder of the world.  The location of the Western terminus was made at Olympia, with a full understanding and ample consideration of all the adjuncts and factors entering into the momentous proposition, but it so happened that a large proportion of the stock of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company was owned by the Puget Sound and Lake Superior Land Company, and the selfishness of human nature became apparent in a schemed for relocation simply to enlarge the scope of the land grant from the government and the donations of a rival city which, after the location had been made was ready to yield up everything to the rapacious cormorants.  Although the terminus was changed to Tacoma, the young city of Olympia stands today, as she did in 1870, when she was chosen under the dictates of reason and good judgment, the possessor of the same magnificent natural advantages which she then held, and the day for their full development is only postponed for a while. 

 

Olympia possesses fine graded streets, a splendid system of sewerage, an excellent water service, which affords likewise ample protection from fire by a gravity system of ample pressure, an electric lighting plant and a magnificent street car line extending the whole length of Main street to the city’s suburb, Tumwater, and on Fourth street to the eastern environs.  She has two splendid saw mills, which furnish frequent cargoes of lumber to sea-going vessels; three shingle mills, a sash and door factory, two creameries, three fish packing establishments, a wooden water pipe factory, and a brewery, at Tumwater, which makes absolutely the best beer on the coast.  Besides these, there are many other smaller industrial enterprises in the city.

 

There was a time when the trade of Olympia was somewhat embarrassed by the mudflats formed from the silt deposited by the Deschutes River, at the extreme end of Budd’s Inlet, but that time has passed.  The general government, realizing the importance of freeing commerce of the fetters thus imposed, made ample appropriation for dredging a channel from deep water to City dock, and this has each year been improved by additional work until it will in time become adequate for all demands of deep-water traffic.

 

Olympia has lately become the transfer point of large logging companies in the Black Hills and Chehalis County [Grays Harbor and Mason Counties] , the former corporation – the Mason County Logging Co., alone, “dumping” a hundred thousand feet a day into our bay, over the N.P. [Northern Pacific RR] and P.T.S. [Port Townsend & Southern RR] tracks.  The Chehalis combine finds an outlet by the N.P. via the Jefferson street terminal, on the east side of the peninsula.

 

The healthfulness of our city is one of its attractions.  Statistics compiled by the government show that our state exhibits the lowest mortuary record of any section of the United States; and of all parts of the state Thurston County is the healthiest.  And this is not all: Olympia shows the smallest per centage of deaths of any settlement in the county!  It is a fact that the only infectious diseases have prevailed here for many years past have been diphtheria and scarlet fever (in a mild form) and these have both disappeared.  The chief use we have for doctors as surgeons, arising from injuries in logging camps, and lung complaints arising from exposure to the damp weather of winter.  The very mildness of the temperature and salubrity of climate induce indiscretions which result in colds that if neglected lead to serious lung diseases.  We therefore except them, and rheumatic complaints, and advise nobody to come here with the expectation of betterment, if their affliction is in either the lungs or the bones.  To sum up health conditions, we can do no better than quote the words of a venerable octogenarian to a representative of this paper. He said: “I have been here twenty-seven years, and in all that time have never had an hour’s sickness.” Hale and hearty, his eyes twinkled with mirth, as he struck his cane on the floor to emphasize his words.  He looks good for twenty-seven more years of health and happiness.

 

Of our climate it is not possible to speak in terms of too high praise.  Our city stands pre-eminent for the mildness and equability of weather in all seasons.  To the Eastern mind this will seem an exaggeration.  To the average citizen of the Eastern and Middle States, who have heard the absurd tales of the wild Northwest, this country seems almost Arctic in its severity.  It is only recently that they have come to realize the truth, and every man who writes a true account of the climate to friends in the East is a public educator.

 

What one of the denizens of New York, for instance, will believe that roses and chrysanthemums are blooming in our gardens in December? That our lawns are still green and beautiful? That no snow has been seen save that which covers the white peaks of our magnificent mountains?  That only at rare seasons the thermometer touches zero in the winter and that only for a few hours? That our splendid flower gardens are still blooming in December?  That we plant our vegetable gardens in February?  How shall they know that when they are seething in the burning sun of a July day, the gentle breeze from the Olympic Range, cool and delicious, pours down upon this picturesque land?  How shall they picture to themselves the coolness and eternal calmness that seems always to be wafted to us on a summer’s day from the eternal snows that lie like a crown of glory about the brow of Mt. Rainier?  How shall they who sit beneath the deafening peals of thunder and the blinding flash of the forked lightning, while the rain comes down in floods, ever dream of the gentle shower that falls in dreamy cadence upon this thirsty soil, as the blessing of the Omnipresent on the promised land?  How shall we picture these things to them?  The cold facts are too tame.

 

 

 

 

The average temperature of the spring months is 48 degrees Fahrenheit, for summer 60 degrees, for autumn 53 degrees, and for winter 38 degrees.  In the month of January, which comprises the winter season, snow sometimes falls, but seldom remains more than a few hours.  The days, as a rule are clear and calm with falling temperature and frost at night, followed by a fogging morning, which draws the teeth of Jack Frost, as it were and vegetation and fruit trees suffer no injury from his bite.  As a fact the fruit trees are budding even in December.  This fact and the further one that fruit grows in great abundance is complete proof that the winters are almost tropical in their mildness.

 

And for the summers! What can be said of them that will be simple justice?  They are simply the ideal summer.  From April to November one long, glorious, splendid succession of sunny days, when life seems just to flow like a peaceful, quiet, rippling stream; the beautiful summer-land of the poet’s dream.  The realization of it is found in Thurston County.  The long delicious twilight extending to 9 or 10 o’clock in the evening, succeeded by a cool night, through which we sleep in perfect comfort with absolutely never the shadow of discomfort, makes a summer night the perfection of human bliss.

 

The records of the U.S. signal station maintained in Olympia from 1878 to 1887 inclusive, afford the following summary, based wholly upon official figures: Highest barometer, 30.63; lowest 29.16; range of barometer, 1.47.  Mean annual temperature, 49.5; highest in ten years, 97 degrees, in 1886; lowest in ten years, 2 above zero, in 1884; mean temperature for spring, 48.8; for summer, 60.7; for winter, 38. The precipitation in the shape of rain and melted snow, has been on an annual average of 54.45; rainfall for spring, 12.01; for summer, 2.66; winter, 27.64.  Mean direction of wind was south; the highest recorded velocity, 32 miles; average velocity, 3.65 miles per hour.  The annual average clear days were 73, fair days 133, cloudy 159, and the number of days on which more than 0.01 inch of rain or snow fell was 151.  Mr. O’Connor, who has kept the record since 1887, says that the figures since that time will not materially change above the record.

 

New Haven, Conn. Has about the same annual rainfall as Olympia; so has Charleston, S.C., and Chattanooga, Tenn., as well as Wilmington, N.C.  Mobile has a far greater rainfall.  Jacksonville, Fla., has about the same; Vicksburg, Va., has more.  Portions of California more, and parts of New York as much. 

 

This brief and necessarily imperfect sketch of some of the perfections of our beautiful little city cannot better close than with the following stanzas written by a prominent citizen, in reply to queries from his Eastern friends as to how he liked Olympia.  He writes:

 

Olympia, Wash., October Seven

The prettiest place this side of heaven,

Where Eden fruits, upon the ground,

Lie in abundance all around.

 

Apple and cranberry, plum and pear,

Each one of them beyond compare;

And these may be eaten both one and all,

Without any danger of incurring a fall.

 

Unless one eats too much, then the grief,

A common remedy can give relief,

Zero, unknown in this favored spot;

Summer-time never exceedingly hot.

 

Healthiest place on all the earth;

Richest land in intrinsic worth;

For there is no better kind of wealth

Than the undying riches of perfect health.

 

Water the purist, in rippling rills,

Coming down from the pine-clad hills;

Fir trees standing like the columns tall,

Hills round about, a verdant wall.

 

Land and sea together meet,

For the praise of man they both compete.

Better than others,  by all odds,

This Olympia City“ Home of the Gods.”

 


 

 

[The “Washington Standard” continued until 1912. Murphy retired in 1910. He was given a retirement party at the new concrete YMCA building in its first function. (The building still serves as the YMCA downtown at 510 Franklin Street) He was honored by many pioneers and prominent citizens from all over the Northwest, as the oldest active newsman in the State.

 

 

In 1914, eleven years after he wrote this article, Murphy had a bout with blood poisoning, which necessitated the amputation of his right foot.  He lingered for two years, confined to a wheel chair, and died in 1916. - Roger Easton.]